BREAKING NEWS!
FREEDOM FROM VACATION STRESS:

Dear Fellow Discerning Traveler,

If you are like us and most of our guest, you value freedom, normally travel on your own and hate the idea of "Big- Corporate-Group-Tours". Frankly we agree as our style is much too personal and flexible to offer that kind of mass-market-touring-with-nametags ect....... Heck, bigger groups don't fit into many of the authentic places we go in old world Spain, our adopted home!

This is why our super-small group adventures are full of smart independent people. Because we FREE them from the hassles and wasted time of "Do-It-Yourself-Travel-in-a-Foriegn-Country" while offering spontaneity, flexibility and a sense of insider discovery, they experience and enjoy more Spain + avoid arguments about getting lost ect...: ) .

Because we respect your vacation time as a precious commodity, our savvy planning and insider contacts means we open doors that "big corporate companies" don't know about. So even if you speak no Spanish, you'll experience Spain as an insider on our fun, historic and delicious 2009 Andalucia adventure. Space is very limited to the first 14 people. So don't miss out, sign up today with no obligation or if you prefer other dates or even more exclusivity we offer VIP-style private & custom tours year round at a higher rate by prior reservation.

Buen Viaje / Happy Travels,
Richard Harris - director
P.S. All this in 10 words: " We set the stage, You enjoy fun insider cultural adventure "

Secrets of Southern Spain
ITINERARY AT A GLANCE

"We all had our own favorite moments as this fun educational trip
had so many memories...experiencing
so much about history, food and culture. It was
our best European vacation ever!…"
Josie & Dennis Dumbauld
Fort Worth, Texas

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ITINERARY AT A GLANCE:
Your insider adventure begins in 2000-year-old Córdoba, a former Roman and Moorish capital in Spain, and explore the awe-inspiring Mezquita, one of the finest examples of Spanish Moorish architecture.The cobble stoned old town and Roman bridge over the Guadelquivir river. We then shuttle into the countryside to the beautiful Renaissance town of Ubeda (2 nights). Guided walks lead us to the beautiful old town, a workshop of a classic potter and an olive oil tasting. Journeying south through Jaen we enjoy a country walk before arriving to the last Moorish capital, Granada (1 night). Our hotel is a short walk from the renownedAlhambra Palace, Europe’s 2nd most visited monument, so we enter the palace before the crowds. We explore the maize-like lanes of El Albayzín (reminiscent of Morroco’s souks) and enjoy a tea tasting and perhaps an exotic meal.

Hemingway’s favorite village, Ronda, is our next stop. We love our old town hotel featuring vistas that beat the Parador (2 nights). We enjoy guided old town exploration including Moorish baths and a fun country walk to an enigmatic religious shrine. Enjoy a unique dinner hosted by our friend Cristobal also in Ronda. Departing Ronda, we have 3 more days of guided discovery including a historic wine port and Seville. En route to the coast, enjoy a easy hillside trail walk before arrival to an unknown historic gem, El Puerto de Santa Maria (1 night) where we enjoy fish so fresh you won't believe it and discover the mysteries of Christopher Columbus! Dramatic Seville, the city of Carmen and Don Juan is next. Experience flamenco, discover the real tapas cuisine and King Ferdinand's Alcazar fortress. Enjoy options to learn the local festival dance. Ask about post tour custom travel planning to discover the unknown and untouristed region of Extremadura.

Get a Day by Day Itinerary Info with More Detail by Clicking Here.

Meet Dan O'Beirne – Trip Manager, Spain Guru, Foodie, History Buff & Good Guy : >
This former-Boy-Scout-turned-world-traveler has resided in Spain since 1998 and helped Richard design this unique trip. Listed by RICK STEVES, the host of a PBS TV TRAVEL SHOW, various times in his Spain guide books, Dan has appeared on the TRAVEL CHANNEL and helped MTV with a Spain production in southern Spain. He loves to help people go beyond the tourist trap facades and EXPERIENCE the real Spain and Portugal,(the way he would have liked to in 1998) especially the fun cultural stuff, food, wine, dance and back story behind ancient traditions. Dan is a fan of slow food, old castles, soccer, red wines, surfing, tango, yoga, flamenco and jamon iberico, maybe the world's best ham. He has studied cooking in the Basque Country and Barcelona and does long distance penance as a suffering fan of the New Orleans Saints and once asked his mother for raw oysters at age 4 in New Orleans while at Mardi Gras. Last year he had a extra role in Woody Allen’s film Vicky Cristina Barcelona. He is writing a historic novel set in Spain and New Orleans and has a winery castle hotel project in Spain in case you want to invest.
 

SECRETS OF SOUTHERN SPAIN SUMMARY:

There are various reasons why travelers choose this super small group cultural walking trip including the savvy cultural discovery, leadership of our guides, the diverse mix of fun safe cultural walking activities, freedom of choice each day, stress-free logistics and the peace of mind of dealing with experienced Spain specialist. As Spain residents and travel specialist since 1998, we are very well-connected which means you enjoy a unforgettable vacation that others can not offer (unless they contract out to MagicalSpain.com). We hope to help you discover Spain with us in 2009! ...Hasta Pronto!

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Trip Summary, Dates, Discounts & Pricing:

- Limited to the first 14 persons only -
"First Reserve, First Serve"

Goal: To experience the insider’s best of southern Spain: Cultural fun, guided walks, tapas tasting's, castles, architecture, nature, wines, olive oils, villages, Seville, top guides, insider contacts + our favorite “secret sites.”

Start: Córdoba

Finish: Ronda or Seville*

Trip Length: 5 days / 5 nights or 8 days and 7 nights

Activity Level: This trip not a triathlon but expect a lively, interactive & fun pace. Decent health, energy and mobility are needed. If you can walk 3 miles at home you should be fine. Of course, ideas for more exercise on trip are available. All activities optional, BUT enjoying cultural fun, great food and good company is mandatory:> Please consult for any questions.

- Limited to the FIRST 14 PERSONS ONLY-
To be sure not to miss out, sign up today with no obligation.

Need other dates?….PRIVATE TOURS run year round* from 3759 euro / person
By request with 4 persons*

*Private Tours can be customized using our insiders savvy, local contacts and
50 years experience of our knowledgeable team.

HOW DO I RESERVE NOW?..
We're delighted you've decided to join our insiders cultural walking trip.
To ensure your spots on this ultra-small group trip is easy.

1) Contact us by email: spain-insider@magicalspain.com or call: 011+ (34) 678 72 44 68.
with dates, names + room request.

2) Your 100% refundable deposit of 150 euro/person your spots *

3) Payments by U.S. Check, PayPal, Credit cards or Bank Transfer.

4) Balance Due 55 days before your Spain Insider Tour

* Deposit is 100% refundable before 55 day mark.

CARPE DIEM!...THE ONLY REGRET IS TO MISS OUT.
- FIRST 14 PERSONS ONLY -

Pricing “ Secrets of Spain’s Andalucia”

2009 Ultra Small Group Tour Program:
5 day Express Tour:
2363 euro per person + deposit
DISCOUNT for booking in 2008 - 576 euro
to just 1787 euro *

Normal Price:
1136 euro, per person

DISCOUNT for booking in 2008 - 388 euro
to just 748 euro *

  
Why is our trip a great investment in your vacation memories? ...Because you'll get many exclusive benefits:
 
Secrets of Southern Spain's Andalucia Tour includes:
• Leadership & Insight of a full-time experienced bilingual tour manager
throughout the trip, to handle behind-the-scenes logistics + cultural fun.
• Exclusive MagicalSpain-only insider experiences:
learning about Spanish cuisine, wine and flamenco,
• Discover people, places and cultural fun you won’t find alone: gourmet
tasting's, dance, and historic walks
• Peace of mind of our 50+ years Spain experience.
• Hidden treasures from Roman to Renaissance
• Insight of Fun expert English-speaking guides & local experts
• Meet select Spaniards: ex: artist, chefs, flamenco dancer
• Select accommodations at deluxe hotels + a medieval village
• Hassle-free land transport with a/c. as per itinerary
• All breakfasts and memorable meals with wine as noted in itinerary
• Porterage of 2 pieces of luggage per person.
• Gratuities for hotels, meals and baggage
• Admissions to tasting's, historic sites and other scheduled events
• Service charges tips (hotels and restaurants) included.
• Live flamenco guitar & dance show.
• Fun educational tapas tasting so you can repeat at home.
 
 
Not included ... (may be contracted for PRIVATE TRIPS): Flights, helicopter transfers, single supplement,  private chefs, yoga teachers, translators, PAs, travel insurance, balloon rides, meals not listed, horse and buggy rides, pre or post tour airport transfers, massages,  cooking school, golf, gift shopping, sport tickets or pre or post tour packages.

2010 Ultra-Small Group Andalucia Tour Pricing:
2400 euro/person* + deposit

2010 Seville, Columbus, Wine Port & Tapas Tour Extension
Price: 1149 euro per person*single supplement applies. 7% tax on final balance not included

2010 dates to be released in fall of 2009.

Want to reserve your dates now?…..Private VIP Tours
Run year-round by reservation from 3959 euro / person
+ deposit with 4 persons*

Bottom Line: YOU'LL enjoy a memorable Spain vacation sans hassles,
that you just couldn't’t create on your own.

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Please note: The itinerary is a sample of how we normally plan to spend our visit. The nature of adventure travel means that occasionally we adjust itineraries based on a number of factors, including weather, changes to hotels and accessibility to sites. In the event a change to an itinerary is necessary, we make every effort to keep changes to a minimum. If you have a special interest would like to pursue in Iberia, please let us know and we’ll be happy to try to assist.

Trip Details:
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Additional Information

ONE OF OUR HAND-PICKED FINE HOTELS: Our goal is always to find the most interesting and memorable lodging a region offers And we strive to be in the historic old towns. Here's one of our favorites in southern Spain.

Hotel: Las Casas de la Juderia
These 15th century noble homes, now combined into a four star hotel, are located in the historic Santa Cruz quarter. We love the location as well as the ambiance as it just a six minutes walk from the huge 15th century Cathedra, King Fernando’s Alcazar fortress and 300 foot Moorish towers. It is the former home of the Duque de Béjarone and is located in one of the most charming neighborhoods in Seville, where important families of the Spanish high nobility like Zuiigas, Padillas and Manriquez dwelled. The hotel's beautiful guest rooms are each individually decorated in true Andalucian style and are complimented by its traditional relaxing sound of fountains on the historic patio. Numerous tapas bars are found around this charming hotel.

“ We are mostly independent travelers, but realized in Italy that we wasted lots of time and added stress driving, parking (what a hassle!) and missed must-see places...We were very happy with Magical Spain’s Andalucia tour. Tour leader Dan (also a foodie) was a consummate host and added incredible insight as a long term American resident of Spain. We got to meet his Spanish friends and gained an understanding of Spanish traditions, history and values....The walks, hotels, tours and planning were well done. We loved the flamenco class and fun tasty meals! We’ll be back to do northern Spain!"
Henry and Kathy H. Chicago, IL
See more customer feedback since 1998>

WEATHER:
Sunny Andalucia has a warm, dry climate. The temperature is generally very temperate, with a daily range from 75 degrees to the upper 80’s and evening temperatures typically in the 60’s.

SUGGESTED READING:
Spain: A History - Raymond Carr
An up-to-date and engaging tour of Spain through the ages. We read of prehistoric Spain and of the imposition of Roman rule, which created the idea of Hispania as a single entity. There are knowledgeable discussions of the Visigoth monarchy, Moorish Spain, the establishment of an empire, and the eighteenth-century Enlightenment, all of which not only chart the political and economic development of Spain, but also examine the extraordinary artistic and literary achievements of the Spanish people. We read of the rise of liberalism in the nineteenth century, and of its fall, which ushered in a period of political instability culminating in the Civil War and authoritarian rule. The book concludes with a look at modern Spain as a fully integrated and enthusiastic member of the European community.

Conquistador: Hernan Cortes, King Montezuma, and the Last Stand of the Aztecs - Buddy Levy
A century before the Mayflower, a single man settled the destiny of the Americas far more momentously than the Puritans ever could. Hernán Cortés's blitzkrieg-like conquest of the Aztec Empire in 1519-21 laid the foundation of a Spanish empire that would eventually stretch from California to the pampas of Argentina. Along the way, he sealed the doom of the native cultures of the Americas, both North and South, and set the pattern of global history right down to the present -- as a series of fateful encounters between, on the one hand, Western ideas, technologies and institutions and, on the other, non-Western cultures, peoples and terrains.--The Wall Street Journal

The Story of the Moors in Spain - Stanley Lane-Poole
First published in 1886, this book has held its place as the classic work on the Moors in Spain: a scholarly, wonderfully readable and sweeping tale of splendor and tragedy.

Seville, A Cultural History - Elizabeth Nash
A literary, cultural guide to the art, architecture, traditions and history of Seville, Cordoba and Granada.

Trip Details:
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Click here to Reserve Your Spot or ask questions

CARPE DIEM!...THE ONLY DISSAPOINTMENT IS TO MISS OUT

Not included: Flights, personal expenses, yoga, travel insurance, balloon rides, meals not listed, horse and buggy rides, pre-tour airport transfers, massages, cooking classes, gift shopping, soccer tickets or pre or post tour packages.

Also see: Terms & Conditions

Discover Andalucia: Spain’s Showcase of Timeless Mediterranean Culture

Nowhere is Spain’s rugged Mediterranean beauty and cultural diversity more vividly evident than in southern Spain's, Andalucia region. Flamenco music, sherry wine, white villages, gazpacho soups and sangria are somehow out of place in other parts of Spain. The warm Mediterranean climate and many hours of sunlight are said to make Andalusians an especially outgoing, imaginative and pleasure-loving people. Anyone who has been in Andalucia will remember the colors, the smell of orange blossom and jasmine on the evening air and the lively activity of the streets.

Bridging two continents, and almost the size of Portugal, Andalucia is one of Europe's most singular regions. Its exceptional weather makes this a perfect destination for outdoor activities. In our tour, we will ride through Mediterranean forests, nature reserves and a spectacular countryside of orange and olive groves, sunflowers and fruit trees, dotted with gleaming white farmhouses and villages in a spectacular setting.

We will admire the splendor of the myriad cultures that have left their imprint on Andalucia in the magnificent Moorish palaces of the Alhambra and the monumental towns of Carmona, Antequera and Ronda. In Cordoba, a Roman temple, a mosque, a synagogue and a Gothic cathedral still peacefully coexist with one another. Time stands still in the Jewish quarters of Sevilla and Cordoba, where the spirit of the old Sepharad pervades the maze of whitewashed streets, hidden plazas and flower-decked patios.

The exotic influence of the Orient is evident in the Flamenco music, delightful cuisine and splendid architecture, all accompanied by the warm hospitality and gaiety of the Andalucia.

If you are planning a Spain tour or vacation, among the highlights of Spain and Andalucia is Granada with here Iberian, Roman, Moorish and Castilian roots. As you stand at the top of the Alhambra fortress tower, circle your gaze and appreciate Granada’s wonders. Gazing south, note the high, often snow-covered, Sierra Nevada range. East, see modern Granada and a broad, dry plateau. To the northeast and below, scan the heart of Granada, making out Plaza Nueva, the Spanish Cathedral, and the Moorish marketplace (Alcaiceria). Gazing north across the Darro River Valley, view the Moorish quarter (Albaicin) with its narrow, winding streets ascending the hill. To the west, behold the incredible Alhambra grounds: the fortress ruins (Alcazaba), the Moorish palaces (Palacios Nazaries), and the Palace of King Carlos V. Alhambra’s diversity and history beckon you to further explorations.

Experience the History

Alhambra’s history speaks through its many sites and buildings, spanning the age of Spanish Muslim period and the Spanish Catholic Renaissance. The Moors built the Alcazaba fortress on the Alhambra hill in the ninth century, expanding upon their seventh century Spanish conquests. Competing Arab kingdoms ruled Granada over the centuries. Finally, under the Nasrid Dynasty of the 13th through 15th century, Moorish Granada rose to its pinnacle, including construction of the Alhambra palaces. Granada was the only remaining major Moorish city, Cordova and Seville having fallen to the re-conquering Spanish by 1248. Granada enjoyed a prosperous independence partially due to its allegiance with Spanish King Ferdinand III. Late in the 15th century, Spain’s Catholic Monarchs finalized their plans to expel the Moors. In 1492 King Ferdinand of Aragon recaptured Granada. The ensuing Spanish Renaissance period saw the building of the Carlos V palace and the Cathedral. Today, Granada is a university town and the bustling capital of an agricultural province. Its flourishing Albaicin quarter remains Europe’s largest Moorish settlement.

Explore the Incredible Alhambra

It’s only a five-minute taxi ride or 20-minute steep uphill walk from Granada’s central Plaza Nueva to one of the two Alhambra entrances. You’ll walk nearly three miles in your Alhambra visit, so take a guide book and plan your visit. Depending upon the entrance and the time frame, a generally effective sequence of sites is the Alcazaba fortress, followed by the Palace of Carlos V, the Palacios Nazaries, and the Generalife summer gardens and palace.

The Nasrid Palace (Palacios Nazaries) displays Muslim architecture at its pinnacle. The walls, ceilings, and columns are worked in low-relief planes of finely molded, colored plaster which catches the light. Many of the ceilings display a honeycomb of decorative, hanging plaster stalactites. The palace rooms border patios with pools and water cascades. The emphasis on water reflects its preciousness in the Arab world. The Court of Myrtles shows off its long reflecting pool, and the Court of Lions highlights a cross of narrow pools that extend into the interior. Moors stood in the Court of Lions 600 years ago, reading the Koranic poetry adorning the walls, and contemplating Muslim paradise and the twelve lions (zodiac, months, etc.). The Hall of Ambassadors was the audience room for the emirs, highlighted by its spectacular views of the Albaicin hill through the pierced-sculpture windows.

Revel in the Spanish Renaissance

Next to the Nasrid Palace is the Palace of Carlos V. It is one of the best works of Spanish Renaissance architecture, yet it seems overshadowed and sadly out of place in the Alhambra setting. Remember that when the Spanish finally defeated the Moors here, they had been fighting for almost 800 years. In that context, it is not hard to imagine why the conquering Spanish throne decided to construct its own palace here. The square, two-storied palace was designed and started by a student of Michelangelo’s in 1528 and completed in the 1600s. Charles V held bull fights in the circular court with its column gallery.

Down in the main town of Granada you’ll find other treasures of the Spanish Renaissance, including Granada’s Cathedral. It is the only completely Renaissance church in Spain, noteworthy for its spacious symmetry and stained-glass rotunda. Right next door to the Cathedral is the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel). Here you’ll find the tombs of Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand, paintings by Boticelli, the royal jewels, and Ferdinand’s sword. It is striking to see the grandeur and realize that this wealth came through the exploits of the Spanish Conquistadors in the New World.

Enjoy Granada’s Spirit

Central and spacious Plaza Nueva is a great place to enjoy the bustle of Granada. Sit at a cafe table, sip an espresso, and enjoy the fountain, views, and passersby. This is also a good area to find a hotel room, on the plaza itself, or on Cuesta de Gomerez, the street that runs up to the Alhambra from the plaza. From the plaza you can quickly reach the Moorish market, then explore the bustling Albaicin Moorish quarter. Climb the streets, map in hand, and find San Nicolas church with its view across the valley to the Alhambra. You have a choice of multiple restaurants here for a Moorish meal. Or head back to the narrow streets around Plaza Nueva to find a Spanish restaurant or tapas bar. In Spain many people dine on tapas or the larger portioned raciones for an early, inexpensive, and tasty meal. Restaurant or bar, Granada’s tasty cuisine is one of its highlights. For more info contact www.MagicalSpain.com

Unknown Andalucia - Mountains of ancient Ronda

Ronda, Hemingway's favorite village in the south of Spain was the old Roman city of Acinipo. Ronda looks out solitarily from its desolate windswept plateau; near this city the armies of Julius Caesar and Pompey clashed in an important battle.The wilderness of the Ronda area has a long history of human occupation, visible in the cave and rock paintings of its prehistoric dwellers and the ruins of Phoenician trading outposts.

Ronda, with its mixture of Moorish and Christian architecture, straddles the bluffs of a sheer canyon, joined by a dramatic stone bridge and surrounded by a spectacular chain of mountains. In the nearby Genal Valley, white villages nestle in the deep green of the Mediterranean forests of oak, chestnut and cork. In former times the isolated, impenetrable terrain of the Serranía made it a hideout for smugglers and bandits. Today, the snowy peaks of the Sierra de las Nieves are a Reserve of the Biosphere.

Europe's southernmost mountain range, only 8 miles from Africa and connecting point between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean is home to some of the most abundant variety of wildlife and vegetation on the continent. The proximity of the Sierra to these seas keeps its climate temperate year round and makes it the meeting place for many species of birds migrating from Africa and Northern Europe. The mountains and valleys of the Serranía are an exceptional habitat for a rich plant and animal life.

Spanish Wine and Food Pairings 101

Pairing foods with wines is very much like discovering wonderful new Spanish Mediterranean recipes. Just as the right combination of ingredients complements and highlights each other to create a gourmet dish, pairing the right wine with a meal in Spain creates a combination that celebrates and enhances the experience of both Spanish food and wine.

And, just as a recipe doesn’t have to be complex to be mouth-wateringly good, you don’t have to be a wine connoisseur or gourmet cook to enjoy the benefits of the right wine pairing.

A basic understanding of the food, the wine and how the components and flavors in each interact can make it easy to find a successful pairing on a daily basis, and can greatly increase the chances of finding an exciting synergy between wine and food.

Start with the Wine
When you’re first trying your hand at pairing, we recommend starting with a wine and then selecting and creating the food around it. The simple reason for this is that it’s much easier to tweak a food recipe to make it more compatible with the wine, than it is to start blending your own wines.

Pick a wine you know a love already. This way, you’ll have a sense of its flavors already, which you can use as a starting point to experiment with food pairings. Plus, if the recipe doesn’t work, at the very least you’ll be able to enjoy a nice bottle of wine!

Be ‘Prepared’ With The Food
Forget the white wine with white meat and red with red meats. The best place to begin your food selection is with an understanding of how the food is being prepared – the components and flavors in the dish that are integral to pairing it with wine. This is why food and wine pairing in restaurants can be challenging. You think that everything will be fine and then discover that the dish has a different flavor (Why did the chef add olives, they didn’t mention them on the menu?), texture (Wow, I didn’t know that the sea scallops and bay scallops are so different!) or cooking method (I expected the chicken to be grilled, but it is poached.).

The three key points
To keep in mind when selecting the food are
1. The food item being paired;
2. The cooking method of that item; and
3. The additional flavors or sauces

The fundamental rule is to begin by pairing delicate wines with delicate flavors, medium-bodied wines with medium-weight or intensity flavors, and strongly flavored foods with wines that will stand up to their pungency. To help keep things simple as you get started, we’ve put together the following guide. Like anything, these are not absolute rules, but good guidelines to follow to help create the most successful and interesting pairings.

Mourvedre ( Monastrell in Spain)

To make the wine even more compatible you can use the sauce to try to imitate flavors in the wine. For instance, mushrooms work well with Pinot Noir, tomatoes with Sangiovese, herbs and mint with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and dark berries with Shiraz.

As we noted, it’s not critical that you memorize this guide and follow it to the letter. The important point is to use this to help learn how the different types of flavors pair with different wines. This understanding of food components and wine flavors is actually much more helpful that simply matching a food to a wine and the basic chicken breast is a great example of why.

Imagine a chicken breast poached (i.e. cooked in water) with a light lemon herb sauce. This might be a dish that could be friendly with light to medium bodied white wines like Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc. Now add a cream sauce and you can move up in body to a fuller bodied wine, maybe a Chardonnay. Or try it roasted and suddenly the flavors are such that it can marry with light to medium bodied reds, like Pinot Noir or Sangiovese. Grill it and it becomes great with fuller bodied reds, even Zinfandel or Shiraz (Syrah).

On The Contrary
In addition to marrying foods with complementary wines, many people like to create a contrast between various components in the dish and the wine in much the same way that you would balance sweet dessert recipe with a tangy sauce. This is as simple as enjoying a crisp acidic wine like a Sauvignon Blanc to cut through a very buttery sauce, or possibly a more oaky Chardonnay with a very tart or sweet dish.

The result is different, but the approach remains the same – consider the flavor of both the wind and food to create a specific taste experience.

Dining Out
You can see why our point about the difficulty of pairing a wine with a meal can be rather tricky when you’re dining at a restaurant. That’s why it can also be more fun. Sometimes those surprises can open your palate to wonderful new experiences.

Of course, don’t ever be shy about asking how a food is prepared or requesting help from the sommelier. Be sure they explain how the preparation of the food pairs nicely with the wine. You’ll be more assured of enjoying your meal and will learn some good lessons for your next adventure in your own kitchen.

Cheese, Wine and Fruit
Any simple gathering can become a tasting event with the classic combination of wine, cheese, and fruit.

An Iberian Couple: Spanish Wine and Cheese
By Jim Clarke

Like sparkling wine kept under pressure and then released, Spanish food and wine is suddenly exploding past the country's borders. In addition to several big-name chefs, the wines and cheeses of the country are becoming popular, and not just in Spanish restaurants. Among cheeses, Manchego has spearheaded the attack into American restaurants, and there are several others trailing in its wake - with many more waiting to be discovered, for that matter. Similarly Spanish wine isn't limited to Rioja anymore; Priorat and Rias Baixas and Penedés and many other quality wines with distinctive personalities are being brought over by enthusiastic and informed importers.

As with France's vinous and dairy products, Spanish wine and cheese make great companions, so I set out to play matchmaker. I was fortunate to visit Spain recently and try a number of wines - inevitably accompanied by cheese - and decided to supplement my education with some research here in New York City. Murray's Cheese Shop in Greenwich Village generously provided me with several great cheeses from their immense selection, and I took them over to see my friends at Union Square Wines to pull some bottles from their shelves that seemed like promising partners.

I began with a creamy mild cheese called Tetilla, which brought back fond memories. The cheese comes from Galicia, in the northwest of Spain above Portugal, and was the first piece of food I put in my mouth when I visited the region last December (The second was some wonderful grilled octopus, a traditional Galician preparation; wonderful, but it made an odd breakfast for me, still on East Coast time). Tetilla is a soft, creamy, mild cow's milk cheese; in Spain, these are less common than those made from sheep or goat's milk, but Galicia's green hills make it the Spanish leader in cow's milk production - cows being pickier eaters than sheep or goats. The cheese's name, which means "nipple," comes from the fact that the cheese is molded into a shape that is said resemble a breast. If so, they must have had Madonna's get-up from the early nineties in mind; the shape is on the cone-like, Hershey Kiss side.

Its risque shape aside, this cheese followed a classic rule of wine and cheese pairing: pair a cheese with a wine from the same region. Galicia is home to the Rias Baixas appellation which makes white wines from indigenous grapes: Albariño primarily, but also Treixadura and Loureira; these are the wines that brought me to visit Galicia. On this occasion I tried the tetilla with the Nora 2002 Albariño, which shows an aromatic nose of peach, apple, and melon with a minerally finish. Paired, it passed its fruity qualities over to the cheese, lightening it, and took on a more Chablis-like character itself. San Simón is Tetilla's alter-ego, a smoked version that's a bit meatier. It also works with Albariño, but preferably something with a brioche edge that will blend well with the smokiness like the Condes de Albarei 2002. If you like cheese croissants it's the match for you.

Cabrales has already made waves in the U.S. among lovers of blue cheeses, but for a blue that's a little tamer (i.e. one that non-blue fans might forgive you for serving) but still creamy, piquant, and flavorful, try Valdeon. It's also the only other cheese we tried that is made with cow's milk, albeit usually mixed with goat's milk depending on seasonal availability. Traditionally it is wrapped in leaves and aged in caves for two or three months, where it develops its blue veins.

Like many blues, Valdeon calls for a sweet wine. Alvear's 2000 Pedro Ximenez Añada worked well, adding a fullness and roundness to the cheese. In this case the wine may be the real winner; the Pedro Ximenez can be a bit too syrupy, and the cheese toned this down and allowed me to concentrate on the figs, dates, and caramel of the wine without being overwhelmed by its texture and mouthfeel. A 2001 Altos de Luzon Jumilla from Finca Luzon also profited from being paired with the Valdeon. The wine's tannins cut through the fat in the cheese, while the slate and other earthy notes emerged from the wine, toning down the fruit.

However, the Jumilla's best match was an Idiazabal, made from sheep's milk in the Pyrenees. Traditionally this cheese was smoked; my sample represented a growing trend away from that treatment, allowing it's buttery and nutty flavors to stand on their own. Together with the cheese, the wine retained all its aromas of blackberry, plum, and slate, and its tannins once more addressed the fat of the cheese to clear the palate. The cheese seemed creamier and smoother in the company of this wine, and they both share an up-and-coming status. The Jumilla DO in Murcia, near Alicante, allows the use of Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Mourvedre (called Monastrell in Spain); it has long been an area of great potential, and the winemakers here have begun applying modern craft to creating more dynamic wines than they have in the past.

The seriously intense Monte Enebro is a cheese that benefits from aging and mold without developing blue veins. A coat of ash and mold forms on the outside of this creamy, spreadable goat's milk cheese, and its tanginess is buttressed by a walnutty base. A Cava like the Marques de Gelida NV Brut brings forth a wonderful smokiness from the cheese, whose nuttiness, in turn, brings out yeasty, bready notes to accompany the sparkling wine's citrus and green apple aromas. Both wine and cheese gain smoothness from the pairing as well. If you've been overindulging in sparkling wines and would like something still, try a sherry like the Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla; there's enough acidity in this wine to keep the cheese's tang in control, and they both possess a complementary nutty element.

A goat's milk cheese with a decidedly different style is Garrotxa, from Catalonia. It's firm, with notes of chalk, wild herbs, and brine as well as a touch of nuts to it. The 2002 Naia is also from Catalonia, in this case from the Rueda DO. The primary grape here is the indigenous Verdejo, and the Naia displays lots of floral aromas which are typical to the grape, along with touches of peach and melon. The herbal scents of the cheese together with the wine's floral qualities bring to mind wind-blown Spanish hills, and the texture and acidity of both partners balance quite well.

Torta de la Serena is a cheese I make a beeline for every time I see it served. Seriously rich and creamy, this soft cheese from Extremadura owes its distinctive, somewhat stinky character to the Merino sheep of the region and the thistle rennet used in making the cheese. Its bold style needs a big red wine to stand up to it. I've enjoyed this cheese on occasion with the 2001 Condado de Haza from the Ribera del Duero, a wine made from 100% Tempranillo grapes; it's dark berries, licorice, and chocolate wraps around the cheese like some yet-to-be-invented bon-bon. An earthier wine also does great things with this cheese; the 2000 Blecua from the Somontano DO is an international blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot together with Spanish natives Garnacha and Tempranillo. Earth, slate and forest floor aromas are layered with black fruits and a clear balsam note from oak-aging; it smooths the more aggressive aromas in the cheese and readies the palate for another bite.

The last successful pairing I tried brought together what may be the two Spanish products most well-known in the U.S.: Rioja and Manchego. 1994 was a special vintage in Rioja and prompted many winemakers to lay down some of their wine according to the special aging requirements to create a Gran Reserva. The Ramirez de la Piscina 1994 Gran Reserva still shows all the character of the tempranillo grape set among the aromas of extended aging: red fruits like cherries and dried cranberries floating over earth, smoke, and barnyard aromas. Meanwhile Manchego is a rich sheep's milk cheese with a mild nutty character and sometimes a pepperiness that increases with aging. In this case my semi-aged Manchego brought new life to the wine, obscuring the barnyard character and filling out the fruitiness. There was just enough tannin left in the wine to balance with the fat of the cheese, and the smoke of the wine blended well with the cheese's nutty touch. Manchego comes from La Mancha, the land of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza; literature's classic pair meets its match on the Spanish table with wine and cheese pairings that ride together just as well.

My thanks to Liz Thorpe at Murray's Cheese and Alexis Beltrami at Union Square Wines for their help in preparing this article.

The Happy Couples: Spanish Wines and Cheeses Together

SPANISH WHITES: Can You Name One?
By Al Dereu

When you consider Spanish wines, what usually comes to mind are the reds from the Rioja and Ribera del Duero areas, the sweet and dry sherries from Jerez (the word sherry itself is a vulgarization of the word Jerez), and the sparkling wine called cava from the Penedés area south of Barcelona. Ernest Hemingway, no stranger to a mellowing beverage, mentioned Spain’s excellent and inexpensive dry rosés on and off in his works, but by and large rosés are under the radar In the United States. Rarely does white wine come to mind – and that’s a shame. Spain, as the country with the world’s most total acreage devoted to vineyards, is home to an array of white wines ranging from the exotic, food-friendly albariño to the more neutral, clean, crisp viura and verdejo to the more familiar chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.

Albariño
Albariño, Spain’s signature white wine, is named for a grape grown in Galicia. It is to Spain what sauvignon blanc is to New Zealand and pinot grigio is to Italy, even more so in that almost nowhere else in the world is this grape grown. Almost exclusively bottled as a varietal (that is, with 100 percent albariño and no other grapes blended in), it is as unique as it is food-friendly. It unquestionably ranks as one of the world’s finest, albeit underappreciated, white wine varieties. It literally has no equal, although if asked to name one I would suggest New Zealand’s ripe yet racy sauvignon blanc. Or course albariño does not show the same herbal/grassy aromas and flavors, but in terms of being relatively light in body and displaying forward fruit as well as assertive, palate-cleansing acidity, New Zealand sauvignon blanc is probably albariño’s closest stylistic cousin

These qualities — light body, searing acidity, and intense minerality — make you think of bottling an ocean breeze. They allow albariño to pair brilliantly with a plate of seafood, shellfish, or, more specifically, paella. Spain’s take on a rice dish, paella is typically studded with scallops, mussels, shrimp, chorizo, and/or chicken. It is finished with sherry and traditionally served in enormous pans designed to serve a dozen or even more at a time. Personally, I wouldn’t dream of eating paella without some albariño on hand. In my mind it certainly ranks as one of the greatest and most natural of food-and-wine pairings around. Albariño will also pair well with any seafood rich in mineral or slate qualities (think oysters), though a lobster drenched in butter would be better served alongside your favorite chardonnay, be it Californian or French white Burgundy.
Albariño’s home is in Galicia, just north of Portugal, and clearly it enjoys its dominating maritime influence. Galicia is lush and verdant, the landscape more reminiscent of Scotland or Ireland than the rest of the Iberian Peninsula. Given the grape’s undeniable success here, it’s hard to fathom why no one has tried to grow it elsewhere. I can’t recall having tried an albariño from any other country. While some experimentation with oak barrel fermentation has yielded modest success, it is the grape’s primary qualities that set it apart. For the most part, I don’t see how barrel fermentation (versus the normal stainless-steel tank) or any degree of aging can improve upon something that is so unique and so good as it is.

Albariño’s Portuguese genetic cousin, alvarinho, is used to make vinho verde. The latter cannot match the former’s exotic nature and in general pales, not only in color, but also in depth and intensity. Vinho verde on the whole is far more neutral in flavor despite its genetic similarity and geographic proximity to albariño.

There is also less variation vintage-to-vintage in the overall quality of albariños than there is with, for instance, wines from Burgundy or Bordeaux in France, where the whims of Mother Nature can wreak havoc on the grapes and resultant wines. Another consequence of this is price fluctuations, as demand for a “good vintage’s” wines inflate its cost to the consumer. Albariño’s prices remain consistent year to year. And its relative obscurity in this country also helps keep down the price tag. A few albariño producers to look for include Martin Codax, Pazo de Señorans, Burgans, and Fillaboa. Some friends and I recently enjoyed a bottle of this last one with tapas at Café Iberico on the near north side of Chicago.

Viura and Verdejo
Viura is the most important white grape of the Rioja area in north-central Spain. Rioja is an area far more renowned for its tempranillo-based reds than its whites; some people even think the Spanish word Rioja means red, but it is actually a contraction of “Rio Oja,” a tributary to the Ebro River that runs through the region. Viura makes a far more neutral wine than the aforementioned albariño, lacking the latter’s exotic aromas, flavors, and overall complexity. It has its place, however; if you consider the scorchingly high temperatures typical of the Iberian inland during the summer months, you can readily appreciate its uses. A lighter-bodied, lower-alcohol wine is much easier to drink in unbearable heat – a big, buttery, 14 percent alcohol chardonnay doesn’t quite quench the thirst as well.

I’ve heard some suggest that the full potential of viura has yet to be realized. While I’m not wholly convinced of this, I’d be thrilled to someday learn that there is more to this pleasant little white. Spain is still breaking out of the isolation that gripped the country during the long rule of Francisco Franco, who only passed away 30 years ago. The modernization of the country’s winemaking, investment in new equipment, and total commitment to cleanliness are relatively recent phenomena. For literally centuries, much of Spain “crafted” and drank an oxidized white of little character. So it’s not far-fetched to think there might be uncharted waters even for a grape they’ve grown for hundreds of years.

There has been some experimentation with oak barrel fermentation with mixed results. The Rioja bodega (winery) Conde de Valdemar offers a decent, well-made white, in addition to a stainless-steel tank fermented one. The unoaked white is a great warm-weather quaffer and pairs well with lighter (white) fish and perhaps a simple herb accent – nothing too heavy. An oaky one would seem more suited for scallops with garlic pan-fried in butter.

Verdejo is another indigenous Spanish grape not really cultivated elsewhere. It is grown in Rueda, northwest of Madrid and near the world-class red wine region of Ribera del Duero. Verdejo reminds me most of sauvignon blanc. In fact, sauvignon blanc is also grown in Rueda, and you can find varietal bottlings of both grapes as well as blends of the two together. Light in body and crisply refreshing (noticing a pattern yet?), verdejo can be called upon to quench your summer thirst and complement a salad or herb-seasoned fish or chicken dish.

Even more so than viura-based wines, you’ll rarely if ever encounter much oak influence with Verdejo. One benefit of this is the price – utilizing oak barrels for fermenting or aging wine inherently increases the price of the finished product. While viura and verdejo-based wines may not be the best white wines you’ll ever have, the flip side is that they won’t bleed your wallet dry either. Even $8-15 a pop will get you a good, genuine example of these wines, and that’s really not much to ask for something distinct, food-friendly, clean and easy. Really good albariños cost more along the lines of $13-20 a bottle, which is still relatively inexpensive. A high-quality chardonnay, be it from California or France, could easily cost twice that and more.

Other Spanish Whites
Some other Spanish whites that don’t fit into the above categories warrant mentioning. The Huguet family, longtime makers of the Spanish sparkling wine cava, make a “still” (nonsparkling) white called can feixes. It is blended mostly from grapes used for cava: xarello, parellada, and macabeo (the regional clone of viura), with a splash of chardonnay. Xarello has various “correct” spellings, so if you see any word close to this, it’s probably the same grape. This blend displays restrained flavors of lemon and unabashed minerality; this would serve as a good intro to Spanish whites for Pinot grigio fans. It’s available in Chicago, where I live; and I recently found it being poured at a small wine store in Leesburg, Virginia, when I was there for a wedding. The friendly and knowledgeable saleswoman and I agreed that it is definitely different, consistently good, and begging for a plate of oysters or shellfish.

Marqués de Cáceres, a Rioja winery, makes a white rioja called satinela. It is made mostly from late-harvest viura, with some malvasia filling out the blend. It is fairly sweet, hinting at apricots, white peaches, and even white flowers. Unlike some dessert wines, though, this finishes with good palate-cleansing acidity. The winery’s data sheet calls this “a very original wine in Rioja” and recommends having it with “foie gras, curry dishes, [and] sweet and sour dishes,” but I tend to think peach cobbler or poached pears. To offer both the forward fruit flavors and a crisp finish is no small feat in winemaking, especially considering its $10 price tag. In comparison, the world’s most esteemed dessert wines can cost $40 to $100 for a half bottle and much, much more.

Marqués de Alella, in the tiny area of Alella, makes a spritzy white called clasico that is another pleasant pairing with seafood. The area itself is near Barcelona and the Mediterranean so this is far from surprising. It is made from the local grape pansa blanca, which is their variety of the xarello grown nearby for the production of cava.

The winery Gramona makes a blend called gessami from muscat and sauvignon blanc that drinks like an Alsatian gewurztraminer. It is even sold in a tall, thin bottle like the wines from Alsace, France. It is fragrant, fruity, and even a tiny bit sweet. The muscat grape gives it an apricot/ripe peach quality, and the sauvignon blanc lends a floral note to it.

An important rule of thumb when buying Spanish white wines is that they are almost without exception meant to be drunk young. Stick with recent vintages, and if you can, hold up the bottle (if it’s clear glass) to any light: a young, acidic white wine should show a greenish tinge, and anything brownish should be shunned. If it doesn’t look fresh, it’s not likely to taste that way. This holds true for most less-expensive whites, not just Spanish white wines. I’ve heard some talk that albariño’s acidity is intense enough to merit some aging, but I’m unconvinced. I don’t understand why you would try. Exploit its intrinsic qualities: buy and drink them young, young, young. If five or 10 years from now we learn that they do age well, then all the better. For now I’ll stick with what I do know. On that note my thoughts are turning towards how to work some paella into my dinner plans sometime soon.

"We never done a "group tour" but decided to try the small group concept... Kudos to tour director Dan who knows everybody! LOVED the mix of structure and free time....great walks, dinners & wine in "secret places" only the locals know about!... the olive oil mill picnic & flamenco class are great memories...We felt so comfortable, sorta like old family friends visiting, not tourist! Hasta Pronto!"
Hal & Susan Landon
New York City

 

"Secrets of Seville & Cordoba"
Guided Tour Extension

Secrets of Seville and Cordoba: Day 1
We'll depart Ronda as 2000-year-old Seville awaits with legends of Carmen, Don Juan, Julius Caesar, Columbus and El Cid. As the Spanish royal port during the golden years of the Spanish empire, Seville grew very rich and we'll see a one-of-a-kind mix of Moorish, Baroque and Classical architecture styles fused together. Our friend a acclaimed local chef and restaurant owner receives us for a private cooking demo and meal. With our guided tour you avoid getting lost in the maze-like old town of palacios, history and culture,

Secrets of Seville and Cordoba: Day 2
We'll meet our local expert Antonio or Concepcion for a insight-filled visit to the exotic Alcazar palace and gardens, huge Moorish towers, the tomb of Columbus and the world's largest Gothic Cathedral. Later options tolearn basics of flamenco dance, have a massage in a Moorish bath and tea house, shop for ceramics, olive oils, leather goods or just relax with a cool glass of fino, Rioja or Priorato wine and fantastic cheeses on orange-tree-lined plazas near our central hotel! Seville is the capital of Tapas cuisine and so tonight we'll enjoy a tapas feast in unknown local taverns including one from the 14th century! Savor a wine tasting with vinos tintos y blancos of northern Spain tonight as we toast our new friends.

Secrets of Seville and Cordoba: Day 3
Discover Cordoba, a former Roman and Moorish capital and once Europe's richest city in the 9th and 10th centuries when Spanish Jews, Muslims and Christians lived in peace with huge libraries and a silk industry while Europe was burning books in the Dark Ages. Cordoba's palaces and baths were renowned for their opulence and it had the first street lighting in Europe. Students and merchants came from all over Europe, Africa and Arabia to this cosmopolitan city which dominated Andalusia for three centuries. Exclusive VIP touring with our resident historian shows us the one-of-a-kind Mezquita, a huge Muslim mosque that was too beautiful to destroy so a Cathedral was built inside, the medieval old town, Jewish quarter and a artisans leather workshop. We'll say farewell by 2pm as our fun tour ends to allow travelers to make travel connections. For those with more time, we can organize a visit to an art collection that influenced Picasso, a Roman archeology collection, the Inquisition castle or another flamenco show!

Seville & Cordoba Guided Tour Extension
Normal Price: 1199 euro, per person
DISCOUNT for Andalucia tour members: 846 euro*
* min 4 persons
*single supplement 175 euro/person
For more info contact us!