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Experience Spain's old
south... on a guided foodie adventure with walks,
traditions, tapas, wine, contacts + cultural fun you
won't discover alone.
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The
more things change in the 21st century...
the more ancient Andalucia remains the same.
It still boasts those gnarly olive trees, friendly locals
and Mediterranean light that inspired Picasso.
Those castles and hill towns are still
medieval and the tapas
cuisine & flamenco dancers are still passionate.
So what's new
down south in Andalucia? Not much except
that our small group tours like Spain's wines, keep getting
better with new highlights,
savvy gourmet tastings, more cultural fun,
more vino + Michelin-starred dining for
2008!
Beyond-the-guide-book experiences,
people and places await. For example...did you know that
if you are with the winemaker in his private
winery, the wine taste even better!
Highlights You Won't
Find Alone:
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- Exclusive chef-hosted cooking demo
with fun meal to inspire your own inner-tapas chef.
- Explore the Alhambra, Seville
and Cordoba with insightful resident
experts.
- Fun historic walks to Roman ruins, medieval
castles & villages and timeless Olive groves.
- Michelin-starred dining and
our top secret personal foodie favorites!
- Meet a top Winemaker in his
private winery for a generous & lively tasting.
- Uncover enigmas of Picasso in
his hometown with a hip art expert.
- Fun gourmet tasting's: Iberico
ham, cheeses and extra virgin olive oils!
- Inside Insight of our local
friends: flamenco dancers, vintners, chefs,
guides artist and more!

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Granada
Ronda
or Cordoba*
6 - 16 persons
/ average 10
6 days/ 5 nights
or
8 days/ 7 nights with tour extension
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You do not need to be tri-athlete
and the pace is relaxed. If you walk 3 times a
week at home you should be fine.For the very fit, more
challenging options can be offered. Enjoying cultural
fun, great food and good company is mandatory.
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"Secrets of Seville &
Cordoba"
Guided Tour Extension
 We'll
depart Ronda as 2000-year-old Seville awaits
with legends of Carmen, Don Juan, Julius Caesar, Columbus
and El Cid. As the Spanish royal port during
the golden years of the Spanish empire, Seville grew very
rich and we'll see a one-of-a-kind mix of Moorish, Baroque
and Classical architecture styles fused together. Our friend
a acclaimed local chef and restaurant owner receives us for
a private cooking demo and meal. With our
guided tour you avoid getting lost in the maze-like old town
of palacios, history and culture,
We'll meet our local expert Antonio or Concepcion for a insight-filled
visit to the exotic Alcazar palace and gardens,
huge Moorish towers, the tomb of
Columbus and the world's largest Gothic Cathedral.
Later
options to learn basics of flamenco dance,
have a massage in a Moorish bath and tea house, shop for ceramics,
olive oils, leather goods or just relax with a cool glass
of fino, Rioja or Priorato wine and fantastic cheeses
on orange-tree-lined plazas near our central hotel! Seville
is the capital of Tapas cuisine and so tonight
we'll enjoy a tapas feast in unknown local taverns
including one from the 14th century! Savor a wine
tasting with vinos tintos y blancos of northern Spain
tonight as we toast our new friends.
Discover Cordoba, a former Roman
and Moorish capital and once Europe's richest city
in the 9th and 10th centuries when Spanish Jews, Muslims and
Christians lived in peace with huge libraries and a silk industry
while Europe was burning books in the Dark Ages. Cordoba's
palaces and baths were renowned for their opulence and it
had the first street lighting in Europe.
Students and merchants came from all over Europe, Africa and
Arabia to this cosmopolitan city which dominated Andalusia
for three centuries. Exclusive VIP touring
with our resident historian shows us the one-of-a-kind
Mezquita, a huge Muslim mosque that was too beautiful
to destroy so a Cathedral was built inside, the medieval
old town, Jewish quarter and a artisans leather workshop.
We'll say farewell by 2pm as our fun tour ends to allow travelers
to make travel connections. For those with more time, we can
organize a visit to an art collection that influenced Picasso,
a Roman archeology collection, the Inquisition
castle or another flamenco show!
Normal Price: 1199 euro, per person
DISCOUNT for Andalucia tour members: 846 euro*
* min 4 persons
*single supplement 175 euro/person
For
more info contact us!
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"Secrets of Andalucia
tour was all that was promised; Fun,
Insightful & Stress-reducing....thanks MagicalSpain"
G. B. Taylor
San Francisco, CA
Dan left behind a legal career and
followed his wanderlust to 30 countries before entering the travel
industry with Norwegian Cruise Lines. After working in Ireland
and Italy, he fell in love with a lusty Rioja wine + a sultry
Spanish senorita and settled in Spain in 1998. Extra-virgin olive
oils, kite surfing, medieval castles, vino, diverse friends and dinner
parties are among his passions.
Click here to Reserve
Your Spot or ask questions
- Decide that You deserve a unforgettable MagicalSpain
cultural adventure!
- Consult dates!....A refundable Deposit of 150 euros holds your
spot
- Balance Due – 55 days before your tour.
- Payments by Bank transfer, U.S. Check, or Paypal.
- Recharge with the smallest groups around on this tour!
Payment can be made by US check to:
MagicalSpain
P.O. Box 1011
Vidalia, LA
71373 USA
Questions?.... Contact us at vamos@magicalspain.com
OR
011+ (34) 678 72 44 68
Also see: Customer
testimonials, Photo album
and our FAQ
CARPE DIEM!...THE
ONLY DISSAPOINTMENT IS TO MISS OUT
Not included: Flights, personal expenses, yoga,
travel insurance, balloon rides, meals not listed, horse and buggy
rides, pre-tour airport transfers, massages, cooking classes, gift
shopping, soccer tickets or pre or post tour packages.
Terms
& Conditions
Single supplement apply - please consult
• Leadership, history &
culture lectures from an experienced tour leader.
• Insight of top local guides
for private guided tours in English.
• Meetings with select Spaniards:
ex: an artist, chef, or government official.
• Select accommodations at deluxe
hotels + one medieval village inn (double occupancy).
• Hassle-free private transport
with a/c.
• Porterage of 2 pieces of luggage
per person.
• Peace of mind of our 50+
years Spain experience.
• Known and unknown sights,
legends & savvy insight.
• Daily Buffet Breakfasts + 6 memorable
meals
with wine (3 in restaurants, 3 deluxe picnics).
• Service charges, taxes, tips (hotels
and restaurants) included.
• Lecture on basics of Spanish cuisine
, wine and music.
• Selected admissions, presentations,
tours, and contact with locals.
• Live flamenco guitar & dance
show.
• Fun educational tapas tasting class.
• FREE copy Magical SPAIN food &
wine report with your deposit.
Pre & Post tour travel?
Fly into Madrid or Barcelona or London
& connect to Malaga, Spain. We can help you with the Spain land
portion.
"We all had our own
favorite moments as this tour
had so many unique memories...learning and experiencing
so much cuisine, history and culture. It was probably
our best family vacation ever!…"
Josie
& Dennis Dumbauld + 2 adult kids
Fort Worth, Texas



Nowhere is Spain’s rugged Mediterranean beauty
and cultural diversity more vividly evident than in southern Spain's,
Andalucia region. Flamenco music, sherry wine, white villages, gazpacho
soups and sangria are somehow out of place in other parts of Spain.
The warm Mediterranean climate and many hours of sunlight are said
to make Andalusians an especially outgoing, imaginative and pleasure-loving
people. Anyone who has been in Andalusia will remember the colors,
the smell of orange blossom and jasmine on the evening air and the
lively activity of the streets.
Bridging
two continents, and almost the size of Portugal, Andalusia is one
of Europe's most singular regions. Its exceptional weather makes
this a perfect destination for outdoor activities. In our tour,
we will ride through Mediterranean forests, nature reserves and
a spectacular countryside of orange and olive groves, sunflowers
and fruit trees, dotted with gleaming white farmhouses and villages
in a spectacular setting.
We will admire the splendor of the myriad cultures
that have left their imprint on Andalusia in the magnificent Moorish
palaces of the Alhambra and the monumental towns of Carmona, Antequera
and Ronda. In Cordoba, a Roman temple, a mosque, a synagogue and
a Gothic cathedral still peacefully coexist with one another. Time
stands still in the Jewish quarters of Sevilla and Cordoba, where
the spirit of the old Sepharad pervades the maze of whitewashed
streets, hidden plazas and flower-decked patios.
The exotic influence of the Orient is evident in
the Flamenco music, delightful cuisine and splendid architecture,
all accompanied by the warm hospitality and gaiety of the Andalusians.
If
you are planning a Spain tour or vacation, among the highlights
of Spain and Andalucia is Granada with here Iberian, Roman, Moorish
and Castilian roots. As you stand at the top of the Alhambra fortress
tower, circle your gaze and appreciate Granada’s wonders.
Gazing south, note the high, often snow-covered, Sierra Nevada range.
East, see modern Granada and a broad, dry plateau. To the northeast
and below, scan the heart of Granada, making out Plaza Nueva, the
Spanish Cathedral, and the Moorish marketplace (Alcaiceria). Gazing
north across the Darro River Valley, view the Moorish quarter (Albaicin)
with its narrow, winding streets ascending the hill. To the west,
behold the incredible Alhambra grounds: the fortress ruins (Alcazaba),
the Moorish palaces (Palacios Nazaries), and the Palace of King
Carlos V. Alhambra’s diversity and history beckon you to further
explorations.
Alhambra’s history speaks through its many
sites and buildings, spanning the age of Spanish Muslim period and
the Spanish Catholic Renaissance. The Moors built the Alcazaba fortress
on the Alhambra hill in the ninth century, expanding upon their
seventh century Spanish conquests. Competing Arab kingdoms ruled
Granada over the centuries. Finally, under the Nasrid Dynasty of
the 13th through 15th century, Moorish Granada rose to its pinnacle,
including construction of the Alhambra palaces. Granada was the
only remaining major Moorish city, Cordova and Seville having fallen
to the re-conquering Spanish by 1248. Granada enjoyed a prosperous
independence partially due to its allegiance with Spanish King Ferdinand
III. Late in the 15th century, Spain’s Catholic Monarchs finalized
their plans to expel the Moors. In 1492 King Ferdinand of Aragon
recaptured Granada. The ensuing Spanish Renaissance period saw the
building of the Carlos V palace and the Cathedral. Today, Granada
is a university town and the bustling capital of an agricultural
province. Its flourishing Albaicin quarter remains Europe’s
largest Moorish settlement.
It’s only a five-minute taxi ride or 20-minute
steep uphill walk from Granada’s central Plaza Nueva to one
of the two Alhambra entrances. You’ll walk nearly three miles
in your Alhambra visit, so take a guide book and plan your visit.
Depending upon the entrance and the time frame, a generally effective
sequence of sites is the Alcazaba fortress, followed by the Palace
of Carlos V, the Palacios Nazaries, and the Generalife summer gardens
and palace.
The Nasrid Palace (Palacios Nazaries) displays Muslim
architecture at its pinnacle. The walls, ceilings, and columns are
worked in low-relief planes of finely molded, colored plaster which
catches the light. Many of the ceilings display a honeycomb of decorative,
hanging plaster stalactites. The palace rooms border patios with
pools and water cascades. The emphasis on water reflects its preciousness
in the Arab world. The Court of Myrtles shows off its long reflecting
pool, and the Court of Lions highlights a cross of narrow pools
that extend into the interior. Moors stood in the Court of Lions
600 years ago, reading the Koranic poetry adorning the walls, and
contemplating Muslim paradise and the twelve lions (zodiac, months,
etc.). The Hall of Ambassadors was the audience room for the emirs,
highlighted by its spectacular views of the Albaicin hill through
the pierced-sculpture windows.
Next to the Nasrid Palace is the Palace of Carlos
V. It is one of the best works of Spanish Renaissance architecture,
yet it seems overshadowed and sadly out of place in the Alhambra
setting. Remember that when the Spanish finally defeated the Moors
here, they had been fighting for almost 800 years. In that context,
it is not hard to imagine why the conquering Spanish throne decided
to construct its own palace here. The square, two-storied palace
was designed and started by a student of Michelangelo’s in
1528 and completed in the 1600s. Charles V held bull fights in the
circular court with its column gallery.
Down in the main town of Granada you’ll find
other treasures of the Spanish Renaissance, including Granada’s
Cathedral. It is the only completely Renaissance church in Spain,
noteworthy for its spacious symmetry and stained-glass rotunda.
Right next door to the Cathedral is the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel).
Here you’ll find the tombs of Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand,
paintings by Boticelli, the royal jewels, and Ferdinand’s
sword. It is striking to see the grandeur and realize that this
wealth came through the exploits of the Spanish Conquistadors in
the New World.
Central and spacious Plaza Nueva is a great place
to enjoy the bustle of Granada. Sit at a cafe table, sip an espresso,
and enjoy the fountain, views, and passersby. This is also a good
area to find a hotel room, on the plaza itself, or on Cuesta de
Gomerez, the street that runs up to the Alhambra from the plaza.
From the plaza you can quickly reach the Moorish market, then explore
the bustling Albaicin Moorish quarter. Climb the streets, map in
hand, and find San Nicolas church with its view across the valley
to the Alhambra. You have a choice of multiple restaurants here
for a Moorish meal. Or head back to the narrow streets around Plaza
Nueva to find a Spanish restaurant or tapas bar. In Spain many people
dine on tapas or the larger portioned raciones for an early, inexpensive,
and tasty meal. Restaurant or bar, Granada’s tasty cuisine
is one of its highlights. For more info contact www.MagicalSpain.com
Ronda, Hemingway's favorite village in the south
of Spain was the old Roman city of Acinipo. Ronda looks out solitarily
from its desolate windswept plateau; near this city the armies of
Julius Caesar and Pompey clashed in an important battle.The wilderness
of the Ronda area has a long history of human occupation, visible
in the cave and rock paintings of its prehistoric dwellers and the
ruins of Phoenician trading outposts.
Ronda, with its mixture of Moorish and Christian architecture,
straddles the bluffs of a sheer canyon, joined by a dramatic stone
bridge and surrounded by a spectacular chain of mountains. In the
nearby Genal Valley, white villages nestle in the deep green of
the Mediterranean forests of oak, chestnut and cork. In former times
the isolated, impenetrable terrain of the Serranía made it
a hideout for smugglers and bandits. Today, the snowy peaks of the
Sierra de las Nieves are a Reserve of the Biosphere.
Europe's southernmost mountain range, only 8 miles
from Africa and connecting point between the Mediterranean Sea and
the Atlantic Ocean is home to some of the most abundant variety
of wildlife and vegetation on the continent. The proximity of the
Sierra to these seas keeps its climate temperate year round and
makes it the meeting place for many species of birds migrating from
Africa and Northern Europe. The mountains and valleys of the Serranía
are an exceptional habitat for a rich plant and animal life.
Pairing foods with wines is very much like discovering wonderful
new Spanish Mediterranean recipes. Just as the right combination
of ingredients complements and highlights each other to create a
gourmet dish, pairing the right wine with a meal in Spain creates
a combination that celebrates and enhances the experience of both
Spanish food and wine.
And, just as a recipe doesn’t have to be complex to be mouth-wateringly
good, you don’t have to be a wine connoisseur or gourmet cook
to enjoy the benefits of the right wine pairing.
A basic understanding of the food, the wine and how the components
and flavors in each interact can make it easy to find a successful
pairing on a daily basis, and can greatly increase the chances of
finding an exciting synergy between wine and food.
When you’re first trying your hand at pairing, we recommend
starting with a wine and then selecting and creating the food around
it. The simple reason for this is that it’s much easier to
tweak a food recipe to make it more compatible with the wine, than
it is to start blending your own wines.
Pick a wine you know a love already. This way, you’ll have
a sense of its flavors already, which you can use as a starting
point to experiment with food pairings. Plus, if the recipe doesn’t
work, at the very least you’ll be able to enjoy a nice bottle
of wine!
Forget the white wine with white meat and red with red meats. The
best place to begin your food selection is with an understanding
of how the food is being prepared – the components and flavors
in the dish that are integral to pairing it with wine. This is why
food and wine pairing in restaurants can be challenging. You think
that everything will be fine and then discover that the dish has
a different flavor (Why did the chef add olives, they didn’t
mention them on the menu?), texture (Wow, I didn’t know that
the sea scallops and bay scallops are so different!) or cooking
method (I expected the chicken to be grilled, but it is poached.).
To keep in mind when selecting the food are
1. The food item being paired;
2. The cooking method of that item; and
3. The additional flavors or sauces
The fundamental rule is to begin by pairing delicate wines with
delicate flavors, medium-bodied wines with medium-weight or intensity
flavors, and strongly flavored foods with wines that will stand
up to their pungency. To help keep things simple as you get started,
we’ve put together the following guide. Like anything, these
are not absolute rules, but good guidelines to follow to help create
the most successful and interesting pairings.
Mourvedre ( Monastrell in Spain)
| FLAVORS |
Crisp - Tangy |
Earthy - Hearty |
Intense -
Spicy |
| WINE
TYPE |
Albariño Verdejo
Viura
Riesling
Sauvignon Blanc
Palomino |
Tempranillo joven
Pinot Noir
Tinto del Toro
Cariñena |
Tempranillo reserva
Syrah
Monastrell-Mourvedre
Garnacha
Graciano |
| FOODS |
Salads/Vegetables
Fish |
Poultry, Game Birds,
Pork, Veal |
Beef, Offal |
| SAUCES |
Lemon based |
Butter; Cream |
Meat
Wine Demiglace |
| PREPARATION |
Poached/Steamed |
Sautéed Baked
Roasted |
Grilled Braised |
To make the wine even more compatible you can use the sauce to
try to imitate flavors in the wine. For instance, mushrooms work
well with Pinot Noir, tomatoes with Sangiovese, herbs and mint with
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and dark berries with Shiraz.
As we noted, it’s not critical that you memorize this guide
and follow it to the letter. The important point is to use this
to help learn how the different types of flavors pair with different
wines. This understanding of food components and wine flavors is
actually much more helpful that simply matching a food to a wine
and the basic chicken breast is a great example of why.
Imagine a chicken breast poached (i.e. cooked in water) with a
light lemon herb sauce. This might be a dish that could be friendly
with light to medium bodied white wines like Pinot Gris and Sauvignon
Blanc. Now add a cream sauce and you can move up in body to a fuller
bodied wine, maybe a Chardonnay. Or try it roasted and suddenly
the flavors are such that it can marry with light to medium bodied
reds, like Pinot Noir or Sangiovese. Grill it and it becomes great
with fuller bodied reds, even Zinfandel or Shiraz (Syrah).
In addition to marrying foods with complementary wines, many people
like to create a contrast between various components in the dish
and the wine in much the same way that you would balance sweet dessert
recipe with a tangy sauce. This is as simple as enjoying a crisp
acidic wine like a Sauvignon Blanc to cut through a very buttery
sauce, or possibly a more oaky Chardonnay with a very tart or sweet
dish.
The result is different, but the approach remains the same –
consider the flavor of both the wind and food to create a specific
taste experience.
You can see why our point about the difficulty of pairing a wine
with a meal can be rather tricky when you’re dining at a restaurant.
That’s why it can also be more fun. Sometimes those surprises
can open your palate to wonderful new experiences.
Of course, don’t ever be shy about asking how a food is prepared
or requesting help from the sommelier. Be sure they explain how
the preparation of the food pairs nicely with the wine. You’ll
be more assured of enjoying your meal and will learn some good lessons
for your next adventure in your own kitchen.
Any simple gathering can become a tasting event with the classic
combination of wine, cheese, and fruit.
By Jim Clarke
Like sparkling wine kept under pressure and then released, Spanish
food and wine is suddenly exploding past the country's borders.
In addition to several big-name chefs, the wines and cheeses of
the country are becoming popular, and not just in Spanish restaurants.
Among cheeses, Manchego has spearheaded the attack into American
restaurants, and there are several others trailing in its wake
- with many more waiting to be discovered, for that matter. Similarly
Spanish wine isn't limited to Rioja anymore; Priorat and Rias
Baixas and Penedés and many other quality wines with distinctive
personalities are being brought over by enthusiastic and informed
importers.
As with France's vinous and dairy products, Spanish wine and
cheese make great companions, so I set out to play matchmaker.
I was fortunate to visit Spain recently and try a number of wines
- inevitably accompanied by cheese - and decided to supplement
my education with some research here in New York City. Murray's
Cheese Shop in Greenwich Village generously provided me with several
great cheeses from their immense selection, and I took them over
to see my friends at Union Square Wines to pull some bottles from
their shelves that seemed like promising partners.
I began with a creamy mild cheese called Tetilla, which brought
back fond memories. The cheese comes from Galicia, in the northwest
of Spain above Portugal, and was the first piece of food I put
in my mouth when I visited the region last December (The second
was some wonderful grilled octopus, a traditional Galician preparation;
wonderful, but it made an odd breakfast for me, still on East
Coast time). Tetilla is a soft, creamy, mild cow's milk cheese;
in Spain, these are less common than those made from sheep or
goat's milk, but Galicia's green hills make it the Spanish leader
in cow's milk production - cows being pickier eaters than sheep
or goats. The cheese's name, which means "nipple," comes
from the fact that the cheese is molded into a shape that is said
resemble a breast. If so, they must have had Madonna's get-up
from the early nineties in mind; the shape is on the cone-like,
Hershey Kiss side.
Its risque shape aside, this cheese followed a classic rule of
wine and cheese pairing: pair a cheese with a wine from the same
region. Galicia is home to the Rias Baixas appellation which makes
white wines from indigenous grapes: Albariño primarily,
but also Treixadura and Loureira; these are the wines that brought
me to visit Galicia. On this occasion I tried the tetilla with
the Nora 2002 Albariño, which shows an aromatic nose of
peach, apple, and melon with a minerally finish. Paired, it passed
its fruity qualities over to the cheese, lightening it, and took
on a more Chablis-like character itself. San Simón is Tetilla's
alter-ego, a smoked version that's a bit meatier. It also works
with Albariño, but preferably something with a brioche
edge that will blend well with the smokiness like the Condes de
Albarei 2002. If you like cheese croissants it's the match for
you.
Cabrales has already made waves in the U.S. among lovers of blue
cheeses, but for a blue that's a little tamer (i.e. one that non-blue
fans might forgive you for serving) but still creamy, piquant,
and flavorful, try Valdeon. It's also the only other cheese we
tried that is made with cow's milk, albeit usually mixed with
goat's milk depending on seasonal availability. Traditionally
it is wrapped in leaves and aged in caves for two or three months,
where it develops its blue veins.
Like many blues, Valdeon calls for a sweet wine. Alvear's 2000
Pedro Ximenez Añada worked well, adding a fullness and
roundness to the cheese. In this case the wine may be the real
winner; the Pedro Ximenez can be a bit too syrupy, and the cheese
toned this down and allowed me to concentrate on the figs, dates,
and caramel of the wine without being overwhelmed by its texture
and mouthfeel. A 2001 Altos de Luzon Jumilla from Finca Luzon
also profited from being paired with the Valdeon. The wine's tannins
cut through the fat in the cheese, while the slate and other earthy
notes emerged from the wine, toning down the fruit.
However, the Jumilla's best match was an Idiazabal, made from
sheep's milk in the Pyrenees. Traditionally this cheese was smoked;
my sample represented a growing trend away from that treatment,
allowing it's buttery and nutty flavors to stand on their own.
Together with the cheese, the wine retained all its aromas of
blackberry, plum, and slate, and its tannins once more addressed
the fat of the cheese to clear the palate. The cheese seemed creamier
and smoother in the company of this wine, and they both share
an up-and-coming status. The Jumilla DO in Murcia, near Alicante,
allows the use of Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Mourvedre (called
Monastrell in Spain); it has long been an area of great potential,
and the winemakers here have begun applying modern craft to creating
more dynamic wines than they have in the past.
The seriously intense Monte Enebro is a cheese that benefits
from aging and mold without developing blue veins. A coat of ash
and mold forms on the outside of this creamy, spreadable goat's
milk cheese, and its tanginess is buttressed by a walnutty base.
A Cava like the Marques de Gelida NV Brut brings forth a wonderful
smokiness from the cheese, whose nuttiness, in turn, brings out
yeasty, bready notes to accompany the sparkling wine's citrus
and green apple aromas. Both wine and cheese gain smoothness from
the pairing as well. If you've been overindulging in sparkling
wines and would like something still, try a sherry like the Delgado
Zuleta Manzanilla; there's enough acidity in this wine to keep
the cheese's tang in control, and they both possess a complementary
nutty element.
A goat's milk cheese with a decidedly different style is Garrotxa,
from Catalonia. It's firm, with notes of chalk, wild herbs, and
brine as well as a touch of nuts to it. The 2002 Naia is also
from Catalonia, in this case from the Rueda DO. The primary grape
here is the indigenous Verdejo, and the Naia displays lots of
floral aromas which are typical to the grape, along with touches
of peach and melon. The herbal scents of the cheese together with
the wine's floral qualities bring to mind wind-blown Spanish hills,
and the texture and acidity of both partners balance quite well.
Torta de la Serena is a cheese I make a beeline for every time
I see it served. Seriously rich and creamy, this soft cheese from
Extremadura owes its distinctive, somewhat stinky character to
the Merino sheep of the region and the thistle rennet used in
making the cheese. Its bold style needs a big red wine to stand
up to it. I've enjoyed this cheese on occasion with the 2001 Condado
de Haza from the Ribera del Duero, a wine made from 100% Tempranillo
grapes; it's dark berries, licorice, and chocolate wraps around
the cheese like some yet-to-be-invented bon-bon. An earthier wine
also does great things with this cheese; the 2000 Blecua from
the Somontano DO is an international blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot together with Spanish natives Garnacha and Tempranillo.
Earth, slate and forest floor aromas are layered with black fruits
and a clear balsam note from oak-aging; it smooths the more aggressive
aromas in the cheese and readies the palate for another bite.
The last successful pairing I tried brought together what may
be the two Spanish products most well-known in the U.S.: Rioja
and Manchego. 1994 was a special vintage in Rioja and prompted
many winemakers to lay down some of their wine according to the
special aging requirements to create a Gran Reserva. The Ramirez
de la Piscina 1994 Gran Reserva still shows all the character
of the tempranillo grape set among the aromas of extended aging:
red fruits like cherries and dried cranberries floating over earth,
smoke, and barnyard aromas. Meanwhile Manchego is a rich sheep's
milk cheese with a mild nutty character and sometimes a pepperiness
that increases with aging. In this case my semi-aged Manchego
brought new life to the wine, obscuring the barnyard character
and filling out the fruitiness. There was just enough tannin left
in the wine to balance with the fat of the cheese, and the smoke
of the wine blended well with the cheese's nutty touch. Manchego
comes from La Mancha, the land of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza;
literature's classic pair meets its match on the Spanish table
with wine and cheese pairings that ride together just as well.
My thanks to Liz Thorpe at Murray's Cheese and Alexis Beltrami
at Union Square Wines for their help in preparing this article.
| Cheese: |
Wines: |
| Tetilla |
Nora 2002 Albariño,
Rias Baixas |
| San Simón |
Condes de Albarei 2002 Albariño,
Rias
Baixas |
| Valdeon |
Alvear 2000 Pedro Ximenez Añada
Finca Luzon 2001 Altos de Luzon, Jumilla |
| Idiazabal |
Finca Luzon 2001 Altos de Luzon,
Jumilla |
| Monte Enebro |
Marques de Gelida NV Brut Cava
Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla |
| Garrotxa |
Naia 2002, Rueda |
| Torta de la Serena |
Condado de Haza 2001, Ribera
del Duero
Blecua 2000, Somontano |
| Manchego |
Ramirez de
la Piscina 1994 Gran Reserva,
Rioja |
By Al Dereu
When you consider Spanish wines, what usually comes to mind are
the reds from the Rioja and Ribera del Duero areas, the sweet
and dry sherries from Jerez (the word sherry itself is a vulgarization
of the word Jerez), and the sparkling wine called cava from the
Penedés area south of Barcelona. Ernest Hemingway, no stranger
to a mellowing beverage, mentioned Spain’s excellent and
inexpensive dry rosés on and off in his works, but by and
large rosés are under the radar In the United States. Rarely
does white wine come to mind – and that’s a shame.
Spain, as the country with the world’s most total acreage
devoted to vineyards, is home to an array of white wines ranging
from the exotic, food-friendly albariño to the more neutral,
clean, crisp viura and verdejo to the more familiar chardonnay
and sauvignon blanc.
Albariño, Spain’s signature white wine, is named
for a grape grown in Galicia. It is to Spain what sauvignon blanc
is to New Zealand and pinot grigio is to Italy, even more so in
that almost nowhere else in the world is this grape grown. Almost
exclusively bottled as a varietal (that is, with 100 percent albariño
and no other grapes blended in), it is as unique as it is food-friendly.
It unquestionably ranks as one of the world’s finest, albeit
underappreciated, white wine varieties. It literally has no equal,
although if asked to name one I would suggest New Zealand’s
ripe yet racy sauvignon blanc. Or course albariño does
not show the same herbal/grassy aromas and flavors, but in terms
of being relatively light in body and displaying forward fruit
as well as assertive, palate-cleansing acidity, New Zealand sauvignon
blanc is probably albariño’s closest stylistic cousin
These qualities — light body, searing acidity, and intense
minerality — make you think of bottling an ocean breeze.
They allow albariño to pair brilliantly with a plate of
seafood, shellfish, or, more specifically, paella. Spain’s
take on a rice dish, paella is typically studded with scallops,
mussels, shrimp, chorizo, and/or chicken. It is finished with
sherry and traditionally served in enormous pans designed to serve
a dozen or even more at a time. Personally, I wouldn’t dream
of eating paella without some albariño on hand. In my mind
it certainly ranks as one of the greatest and most natural of
food-and-wine pairings around. Albariño will also pair
well with any seafood rich in mineral or slate qualities (think
oysters), though a lobster drenched in butter would be better
served alongside your favorite chardonnay, be it Californian or
French white Burgundy.
Albariño’s home is in Galicia, just north of Portugal,
and clearly it enjoys its dominating maritime influence. Galicia
is lush and verdant, the landscape more reminiscent of Scotland
or Ireland than the rest of the Iberian Peninsula. Given the grape’s
undeniable success here, it’s hard to fathom why no one
has tried to grow it elsewhere. I can’t recall having tried
an albariño from any other country. While some experimentation
with oak barrel fermentation has yielded modest success, it is
the grape’s primary qualities that set it apart. For the
most part, I don’t see how barrel fermentation (versus the
normal stainless-steel tank) or any degree of aging can improve
upon something that is so unique and so good as it is.
Albariño’s Portuguese genetic cousin, alvarinho,
is used to make vinho verde. The latter cannot match the former’s
exotic nature and in general pales, not only in color, but also
in depth and intensity. Vinho verde on the whole is far more neutral
in flavor despite its genetic similarity and geographic proximity
to albariño.
There is also less variation vintage-to-vintage in the overall
quality of albariños than there is with, for instance,
wines from Burgundy or Bordeaux in France, where the whims of
Mother Nature can wreak havoc on the grapes and resultant wines.
Another consequence of this is price fluctuations, as demand for
a “good vintage’s” wines inflate its cost to
the consumer. Albariño’s prices remain consistent
year to year. And its relative obscurity in this country also
helps keep down the price tag. A few albariño producers
to look for include Martin Codax, Pazo de Señorans, Burgans,
and Fillaboa. Some friends and I recently enjoyed a bottle of
this last one with tapas at Café Iberico on the near north
side of Chicago.
Viura is the most important white grape of the Rioja area in north-central
Spain. Rioja is an area far more renowned for its tempranillo-based
reds than its whites; some people even think the Spanish word
Rioja means red, but it is actually a contraction of “Rio
Oja,” a tributary to the Ebro River that runs through the
region. Viura makes a far more neutral wine than the aforementioned
albariño, lacking the latter’s exotic aromas, flavors,
and overall complexity. It has its place, however; if you consider
the scorchingly high temperatures typical of the Iberian inland
during the summer months, you can readily appreciate its uses.
A lighter-bodied, lower-alcohol wine is much easier to drink in
unbearable heat – a big, buttery, 14 percent alcohol chardonnay
doesn’t quite quench the thirst as well.
I’ve heard some suggest that the full potential of viura
has yet to be realized. While I’m not wholly convinced of
this, I’d be thrilled to someday learn that there is more
to this pleasant little white. Spain is still breaking out of
the isolation that gripped the country during the long rule of
Francisco Franco, who only passed away 30 years ago. The modernization
of the country’s winemaking, investment in new equipment,
and total commitment to cleanliness are relatively recent phenomena.
For literally centuries, much of Spain “crafted” and
drank an oxidized white of little character. So it’s not
far-fetched to think there might be uncharted waters even for
a grape they’ve grown for hundreds of years.
There has been some experimentation with oak barrel fermentation
with mixed results. The Rioja bodega (winery) Conde de Valdemar
offers a decent, well-made white, in addition to a stainless-steel
tank fermented one. The unoaked white is a great warm-weather
quaffer and pairs well with lighter (white) fish and perhaps a
simple herb accent – nothing too heavy. An oaky one would
seem more suited for scallops with garlic pan-fried in butter.
Verdejo is another indigenous Spanish grape not really cultivated
elsewhere. It is grown in Rueda, northwest of Madrid and near
the world-class red wine region of Ribera del Duero. Verdejo reminds
me most of sauvignon blanc. In fact, sauvignon blanc is also grown
in Rueda, and you can find varietal bottlings of both grapes as
well as blends of the two together. Light in body and crisply
refreshing (noticing a pattern yet?), verdejo can be called upon
to quench your summer thirst and complement a salad or herb-seasoned
fish or chicken dish.
Even more so than viura-based wines, you’ll rarely if ever
encounter much oak influence with Verdejo. One benefit of this
is the price – utilizing oak barrels for fermenting or aging
wine inherently increases the price of the finished product. While
viura and verdejo-based wines may not be the best white wines
you’ll ever have, the flip side is that they won’t
bleed your wallet dry either. Even $8-15 a pop will get you a
good, genuine example of these wines, and that’s really
not much to ask for something distinct, food-friendly, clean and
easy. Really good albariños cost more along the lines of
$13-20 a bottle, which is still relatively inexpensive. A high-quality
chardonnay, be it from California or France, could easily cost
twice that and more.
Some other Spanish whites that don’t fit into the above
categories warrant mentioning. The Huguet family, longtime makers
of the Spanish sparkling wine cava, make a “still”
(nonsparkling) white called can feixes. It is blended mostly from
grapes used for cava: xarello, parellada, and macabeo (the regional
clone of viura), with a splash of chardonnay. Xarello has various
“correct” spellings, so if you see any word close
to this, it’s probably the same grape. This blend displays
restrained flavors of lemon and unabashed minerality; this would
serve as a good intro to Spanish whites for Pinot grigio fans.
It’s available in Chicago, where I live; and I recently
found it being poured at a small wine store in Leesburg, Virginia,
when I was there for a wedding. The friendly and knowledgeable
saleswoman and I agreed that it is definitely different, consistently
good, and begging for a plate of oysters or shellfish.
Marqués de Cáceres, a Rioja winery, makes a white
rioja called satinela. It is made mostly from late-harvest viura,
with some malvasia filling out the blend. It is fairly sweet,
hinting at apricots, white peaches, and even white flowers. Unlike
some dessert wines, though, this finishes with good palate-cleansing
acidity. The winery’s data sheet calls this “a very
original wine in Rioja” and recommends having it with “foie
gras, curry dishes, [and] sweet and sour dishes,” but I
tend to think peach cobbler or poached pears. To offer both the
forward fruit flavors and a crisp finish is no small feat in winemaking,
especially considering its $10 price tag. In comparison, the world’s
most esteemed dessert wines can cost $40 to $100 for a half bottle
and much, much more.
Marqués de Alella, in the tiny area of Alella, makes a
spritzy white called clasico that is another pleasant pairing
with seafood. The area itself is near Barcelona and the Mediterranean
so this is far from surprising. It is made from the local grape
pansa blanca, which is their variety of the xarello grown nearby
for the production of cava.
The winery Gramona makes a blend called gessami from muscat and
sauvignon blanc that drinks like an Alsatian gewurztraminer. It
is even sold in a tall, thin bottle like the wines from Alsace,
France. It is fragrant, fruity, and even a tiny bit sweet. The
muscat grape gives it an apricot/ripe peach quality, and the sauvignon
blanc lends a floral note to it.
An important rule of thumb when buying Spanish white wines is
that they are almost without exception meant to be drunk young.
Stick with recent vintages, and if you can, hold up the bottle
(if it’s clear glass) to any light: a young, acidic white
wine should show a greenish tinge, and anything brownish should
be shunned. If it doesn’t look fresh, it’s not likely
to taste that way. This holds true for most less-expensive whites,
not just Spanish white wines. I’ve heard some talk that
albariño’s acidity is intense enough to merit some
aging, but I’m unconvinced. I don’t understand why
you would try. Exploit its intrinsic qualities: buy and drink
them young, young, young. If five or 10 years from now we learn
that they do age well, then all the better. For now I’ll
stick with what I do know. On that note my thoughts are turning
towards how to work some paella into my dinner plans sometime
soon.
"We never done a "group tour" but decided
to try the small group concept... Kudos to tour director Dan who
knows everybody! LOVED the mix of structure and free time....great
walks, dinners & wine in "secret places" only the locals know
about!... the olive oil mill picnic & flamenco class are great
memories...We felt so comfortable, sorta like old family friends
visiting, not tourist! Hasta Pronto!"
Hal &
Susan Landon
New York City
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